Working with nature

"A dozen or so pebbles arranged on a picnic-rug square acorn cups, oak leaf saucers and petal plates weighted down with delicious morsels of snailshell and seeds, set neatly for fairy tea: one of my earliest memories of a creative childhood.

Out of doors was my favourite place to be. Playtime inside only appealed on rainy days, when fairy tea parties had to be postponed, when pine needles were to damp to 'sew' with, and camps in trees too bedraggled to be homely.

My love of the outdoors was encouraged by patient parents and grandparents, their own love of nature influencing my understanding and appreciation of it. Grandma would spend ours looking for tree men in the knots and furrows of wood and making special expeditions to visit spots where we were sure that we had seen fairies. This love of the outdoors and fascination with cloth of nature has grown with me and now finds its expression in my work as an Artist.

I studied at Loughborough College of Art & Design where, with excellent guidance from tutor Margaret Hall Townley, I was encouraged to express the fascination with nature born of my childhood. I was encouraged to 'play' with fibres with no preconceived idea of technique. A personal understanding of textile media developed and, with it, technique, not learned but natural and immediate to myself, enabling me to work intuitively.

I discovered fibres to be an exciting medium akin to the cloth of nature. Woven and bonded cloth spun threads, a multiplicity of fibre types with different responses to stitch, dye and manipulation-a tremendous resource for artistic interpretation. I could create toadstools and stand them in fairy rings, stitch my grimacing little woodsmen, make them a tree, translate the fragility of a butterfly's wing. I continue to discover new in which textiles respond, ways in which to interpret ideas and bring my imagination to life.

At present I work largely with silk, which has a wonderful affinity with dye, enabling me to achieve subtler hues and tones of colour. I enjoy sparing use of synthetics for their translucency and for their texture when heat-distorted, as with bubbled organza. Interpreting reflective qualities often calls for snippets of metal-weave fabric, and gold and silver threads. I also enjoy incorporating semi-precious stones, fragments of shell and iridescent feather.

Space and freedom of movement are so vital to nature and therefore important considerations as I work. Many pieces are suspended quite literally in space from rods within carefully designed Perspex cases. They are often composed of several sheer, cut-away layers hanging together with some distance between each, Each layer is worked in such a way as to be glimpsed through the next. I prefer to work by hand, slowly evolving each piece rather than bounding on towards the finish, adapting ideas and changing my image of what this 'finish' should be. Tiny stab stitches are favourite; to hold fragments of fabric invisibly together or to couch threads across the surface of a piece. The unassuming stab stitch is of infinite value to me: veining leaves, defining the pattern of a butterfly's wing, or laying down the metallic armour of a beetle.

I do use the machine to create delicate lacy cloths, stitching fine silk and metallic threads over dissolvable fabric, often incorporating semi-precious stone and fabric fragments as I work. I have more recently been weaving and knotting threads together by hand, producing even finer 'single thread' lace to incorporate onto my work.

The delicacy of nature so often inspires me. This delicacy does however needs support, achieved by stitching inconspicuously into place. For example, a wire behind a butterfly's wing enables me to lift it away from the surface of the embroidery and 'into life'. Wiring also enables manipulation. For example, the veins of a leaf, once wired, enable that leaf to hold its shape when crumpled or twisted. Silk-bound wires, from the finest electrical wire, are used throughout my work to interpret roots, stems and even pine needles I 'stitched' with as a child.

Although I work intuitively, I study my subjects carefully in the field, sketching, photographing and collecting specimens as well as referring to natural history textbooks. However, I rarely make plans for a piece in its entirety. The strongest images of my finished work lie in my mind rather than on paper."

• TOP •

photos by Jane E Hall:
swans
swans

moth
Six Spot Burnet Moth


Hawker dragonfly